In 1900 the P&R took delivery of 1250 class GMd, e, f and g 36 ft mill gons from the Pressed Steel Car Co. These were low side gons typical of the P&R used in the iron and steel trade.
Cars 9350-9599 (250 cars) were 100,000 lb capy. class GMd cars that were 9’0″ wide inside and then they received cars 8350-9349 (1000 cars) that were 100,000 lb capy. class GMf cars that were 9’2′ wide inside, but ootherwise had the same dimensions. Later, as the cars got older they were downgraded to 80,000 lbs capy and re-classified to classes GMe and GMg respectively. The cars were delivered with Fox trucks.
Since I model the W&N branch which has numerous industries that deal in iron and steel products, I always need mill gons. I figured out that a class GMd/GMf gon could be easily kitbashed from an Athearn 50 ft gon shell and an MDC metal underframe. I had several surplus underframes from previous kitbashes of MDC boxcars and was able to find a used Athearn gon for less than $5 to steal the shell.
An off center portion of the Athearn shell will be removed. The tape marks where the cuts were made, just over a foot beyond the edges of the side stakes. The removed piece should have 11 full panels and 12 side stakes.
The ends are carefully sanded square so they are about a foot beyond the side stakes, the critical distance is that the length of the piece is as long as the MDC cast metal underframe. I like to sand plastic shells using wet-dry sand paper on a granite floor tile. The granite tiles are very flat, smooth and water resistant.
The Athearn sheel has been trimmed and sanded to fit on the MDC underframe.
The fishbelly is cut off even with the ends of the shell. I scribed a line even with the ends and then used a pair of flush cutting pliers (rail nippers) to nibble off the excess fishbelly.
Sand the bottom of the shell flush all the way across. I use water on the wet-dry sanding sheet to cut faster and smoother. check it frequently to make sure the shell doesn’t get over sanded and reduce the depth of the sides.
Test fit the trimmed shell on the underframe to make sure the sides are straight.
Mark the sides 2′ 6″ ft from the bottom of the car side. Then scribe a line along the side. Once again cut off the excess sides above the line. I used a rail nipper to remove the majority and then files and sandpaper to finish it to size.
Check the height of the sides frequently while sanding to make sure they are the right height and parallel to the bottom.
Use a piece of tape to protect the floor of the car and cut off the sides flush with the floor on the ends, back to the edge of the first rib. Then cut down along the edge of the first rib.
Sand or file the ends smooth with the end rib, to create “notches” at each end.
Use a long file to bevel off the ribs on the sides at the top and bottom. I should have trimmed them more from the top on mine to make a longer taper.
Cut a piece of .010 styrene to the height of the sides and as long as the width of the car. Cement it to the shell to make the car end.
Cut and glue styrene 2×6 to the top chord of the sides.
Add a 4×12 or 6×12 to the end of the car as an endsill.
Check to make sure the end sill and the shell still fits over the MCD underframe.
The next step is to make the buffer blocks (a hold over from link and pin couplers). I use 1/8″ plastic rod, however I couldn’t find my package. Fortunately, i had an old plastic sprue from a Walther’s building kit with some nubs that were the right diameter. I filed the tops flatter and then cut off pieces in the 6-9″ high range. Styrene sheet was cut in a scale 12″ x 36″ piece as a mounting plate.
The mounting plate was centered over the coupler pocket and cemented to the end sill. I took 3/16″ plastic tube and used a drill to make a concave depression in the end (twisting the drill in my fingers). I then sliced off a piece of the tube at an angle to make poling pockets. Those were cemented to the corners of the end sill. After the cement had set, I filed the buffer blocks down so they were the same length and parallel to the end sill.
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On the B end of the car I installed a brake wheel from a Tichy KC brake kit. I installed Tichy 18″ straight grab irons 6″ down on the sides. Normally I use A-Line style A stirrup steps on the corners, but I ran out of them on another gondola project. So I used staples and bent them in a square U one foot wide. Holes were drilled into the car sides and they were attached at all four corners.
The underframe is next. The firt thing I did was to drill and tap the bolsters and coupler pockets to accept a 2-56 screw.
This car actually has a shallow fishbelly underframe, however it’s not very visible so I decided to create the illusion of a center sill and cut a piece of .125 x .250 styrene strip to fit between the bolsters as a center sill. I then added a small pad of .080 styrene to mount the brake cylinder.
On these cars, based on the available pictures, the brake cylinder is about the 5th panel from the A end of the car. I cemented a Tichy KC brake cylinder the plastic pad. If you aren’t into brake rigging, you can stop right here.
However, I have been trying to up my detail somewhat , so I decided to go ahead and install a basic brake rigging. I used brake beams from the Tichy KC brake kit and Tichy .0125 phosphor bronze wire to make the brake rigging. The brake hangers were Tichy 18″ straight grab irons. The brake pipe on these cars runs down between the two plates that would make up the center sill, since I didn’t model that and it wouldn’t be seen, dispensed with modeling the trainline or branch pipe.
While the brake rigging is very simple and not that difficult to do and at a low angle does give a nice lacy feel to the underside of the car.